Having never seen
Pearl-bordered Fritillary before and sadly missing them at Glasdrum Wood
earlier in the week, reports of a number of individuals on the wing at Eyarth
Rocks near Ruthin saw me and Alex plan a visit during half term to try and catch up
with them.
Eventually arriving on site,
we made our way up the steep woodland slopes to the start of the reserve,
navigating the many un-signposted tracks in the wood (with a few wrong turns)
before the trees opened up to reveal the sunny hill top summit. Surrounded by open
stands of bracken, the area was clearly being managed with Pearl-bordered
Fritillaries in mind, and within a matter of minutes we had seen our first
individual gliding majestically by.
Despite exploring the summit,
it transpired the small patch of ground right at the start near the gate and
entrance sign was the most productive, and we had up to four individuals
feeding on the buttercups and Birds-foot Trefoil in the vicinity.
Great Knot, Red-eyed Vireo and Acadian Flycatcher – the three birds that I have missed through being in work, due to them either being one day wonders or departing before the weekend came around. Undoubtedly there will certainly be another Red-eyed Vireo, and with an almost equal certainty there most definitely WON’T be another Acadian Flycatcher (at least for a very VERY long time!) but Great Knot?
Now endangered in their native range of Australia and SE Asia, and with populations in decline due to habitat destruction, there have only ever been 4 records of Great Knot in Britain – the last of which was the Breydon Water bird in Norfolk two years ago. Before then, the last individual was 10 years earlier in Lancashire back in 2004 - the chances of another one coming around so soon were looking very slim.
It was therefore quite a surprise and rather unexpected when reports surfaced of a summer plumaged Great Knot found on the Freshmarsh at Titchwell RSPB – an attractive black and rust coloured adult. With the bird remaining throughout the day and relocating to the beach later in the afternoon, there was hope that we might just be able to grip back this mega wader at the weekend.
Chequered Skipper was a species of butterfly I was still yet to see in Britain, and being up in Fort William during the height of their flight season thanks to the Black-billed Cuckoo twitch provided the perfect opportunity to catch up with this charismatic species.
After a delicious cooked breakfast at the B&B (overlooking the beautiful scenery of Loch Linnhe) we made the 40 minute journey along the twisting loch-side roads to Glasdrum Wood NNR, a well-known hotspot for Chequered Skippers and one of the most popular sites in Britain for this species.
Confined to just the North West of Scotland and with a distribution centred largely around Fort William, Chequered Skippers are a true Scottish speciality, and I was especially looking forward to catching up with them having not had time to stop when we visited Mull two years ago when they were on the wing. With glorious sunshine and perfect blue skies the conditions weather-wise were perfect, and after parking up in the car park we were soon making our way up the grassy slope in pursuit of this Highland gem.
Before long we had successfully located several individuals, buzzing through the grass and often landing on any exposed branches or leaves in front of us. Rather frustratingly (perhaps due to the hot midday sun) the skippers rarely opened their wings when they landed, instead choosing to perch with them shut tight and displaying only the underside patterns.
Eventually though we managed to find some obliging individuals with their wings flat out, allowing us to get some photos of their distinctive gold and brown checked wings.
With at least two calling cuckoos and a range of other butterfly delights including several Small Pearl-bordered Fritillaries (which sadly never landed for me to get any photos) and a lone Green Hairstreak, Glasdrum Wood was a fantastic reserve to visit in a truly beautiful setting. The only possible downside was the sudden discovery of a large number of ticks hitching a lift on our shirts and socks – resulting in a swift exit from the site and a thorough checking over and change of clothes before leaving!
With such a limited distribution, conservation efforts are underway to secure the long-term future of this species and to hopefully expand its at present rather restricted range. Once also occurring in central England, Chequered Skippers were sadly declared extinct there in the 70’s, rendering this species as a true Highland speciality.
Getting there and seeing the butterflies:
Glasdrum Wood can be found off the small road to Inver after turning east off the A828 roundabout just after the Loch Creran Bridge. The post code to the car park is PA38 4BQ, and the entrance will be on the left hand side.
The Chequered Skippers are easy to locate at Glasdrum in good weather, and are a short 5 minute walk from the car park. Follow the footpath up the hill to the power lines before turning left along the well-trodden track along the slope, following the power lines across. The skippers are all along this track, along with Pearl and Small Pearl-bordered Fritillaries. We visited at the very end of May/start of June when the skippers were in their prime. Watch out for ticks!! For more information, visit the Scotland's NNR Glasdrum Wood website.
When news of a Broad-billed
Sandpiper seen at Gronant emerged late on a Saturday evening, I was hopeful it
would stick around in the area and that I’d finally be able to grip back on the
Hoylake bird I missed out on 5 years ago! Unfortunately, the fact that it was
still there early on Sunday morning didn’t surface until well in to the
afternoon (much too late to travel over especially when a delicious lamb roast
was cooking in the oven courtesy of my Mum) and with no sign on Monday, that
appeared to be the end of any chances I had of catching up with a Broad-billed
Sandpiper any time soon!
The Broad-billed Sandpiper!
What I hadn’t bargained for
however was eagle-eyed Alex staking out Kimnel Bay and Rhyl Harbour in an
effort to relocate it the next day, and sure enough, around high tide just
before 7, I received a photo from him depicting one Broad-billed Sandpiper,
head tucked under its wing and happily roosting on the pebble shore near
Horton’s Nose. Argh!
Alex's photo he sent to me!
Half way through cooking
5-spice chicken and noodles, I had to wait until we’d gobbled the last strand
down before setting off in pursuit of this attractive vagrant shorebird. With
Alex heroically staying on site until I got there (3 hours in total!) I had a
running commentary on the way over – the bird seemed very flighty and on more
than once occasion was flushed and flew away further up the beach. Then, when
we were just 7 minutes away, Alex relayed news that it had flown away high to
the west after being harassed by a Ringed Plover – nightmare!!
Pulling in to the Rhyl Harbour
car park and heading up the path to Kimnel Bay, the Dunlins that the
Broad-billed Sandpiper had been associating with had returned, but there was no
sandpiper in sight. With the light now fading and the evening dog walkers
heading out in force, it was a race against time to see if we could relocate
it. With Alex rushing off down the beach where it had last headed, we soon
encountered a mixed group of waders feeding in one of the pools further down
the shore- it had to be amongst them, surely! With Alex getting a brief glimpse
of the Broad-billed Sand in the scope and confirming that it was still there moments
before two large dogs flushed the flock, it seemed inevitable that the birds
would get spooked and we’d miss our chance – so near yet so far!
Luckily however, the birds
stuck around, and with the dogs heading off in to the distance we could focus
our efforts on relocating that Broad-billed. Several Turnstones pottered around
the rocks looking for morsels while Dunlins scuttled amongst them – then, what
was that - a small silver-grey bird dashing across the sand caught our
attention. With a strong pattered back and bold stripes across the head it was
immediately obvious we had our target! Bingo! One Broad-billed Sandpiper
showing nicely!
The arrowhead streaks on the flanks were obvious too
With the light now fading it
was difficult to get any good photos, but I managed a few record shots as it
scurried about on the sand, at one point even flying right towards us and
landing on the rocks in front, providing excellent scope views of what is
definitely one of the more attractive sandpipers.
Alex's video of the Broad-billed Sandpiper
A great find by Alex and a
well-deserved reward for patching the area so thoroughly – proving that if you
put the effort in and search enough times you’ll eventually strike gold and
come up with something special!
Come the evening of Sunday 22nd
May I don’t know what blew my mind more – the fact that the Birdguides app mega
alert sound was in fact the call of a Black-billed Cuckoo (check out Xeno Canto
for those that don’t know!) or the fact that there was an actual Black-billed
Cuckoo sat on a fence in far-away North Uist, happily feeding on caterpillars
and being twitched by a handful of very lucky birders! The photographs that
soon surfaced showing a fine, healthy, pristine spring adult gobbling juicy
green caterpillars were even more mind blowing.
The Uist Black-billed Cuckoo - an absolutely crazy record!
Before now, all previous
records of Black-billed Cuckoo in Britain have been of autumn juveniles, each
having the same sad glimmer of despair in the eyes and resigned to the
inevitable fate that was waiting for them here on this side of the Atlantic –
none have lasted longer than 3 days, with American cuckoos being notorious for
perishing after making the crossing. Turning up in Britain it seems results in
certain death as far as Coccyzus cuckoos are concerned.
With news breaking late on the
Sunday night, the chances of it sticking until the following weekend, especially
going on the past unfortunate history of this species, may have at first glance
appeared extremely slim and approaching zero. This bird however was unchartered
territory – never before had a spring individual made it across to these
shores, and certainly not a healthy adult. Could it do the unthinkable and
stick around for a whole week? Surely not….
As the days slowly ticked by
the news remained positive - each day boat and plane loads of birders happily
connected and reported the bird as still present and showing well. Plans
started to form, and with confirmation that the cuckoo was still in its
favoured gardens come Friday morning, I sprang into action and hastily booked
us some accommodation for our trip. An overnight stop in Fort William would
break up the daunting 9 hour drive after work, with the last 2 ¾ hours to our
ferry at Uig on Skye undertaken the following morning. Seemingly simple?
Things started to unravel as
we neared Glasgow. An ominous silence on the Cuckoo’s whereabouts since near
midday was broken by negative news late on in the evening – the bird hadn’t
been seen all afternoon and was last reported as “disappearing over the top of
a hill”. This was not good. As another birder had put it, a bird seemingly
‘doing one’ over the top of a hill has never resulted in anything positive when
twitching is concerned! Never the less, we ploughed on to Fort William, dodging
deer on the way and feeling somewhat disheartened at the fact we were seemingly
driving towards a dip.
The heart-stopping Birdguides report whilst driving up through Glasgow!
After a much needed night’s
sleep in the Travelodge I came out of the shower to be met with the welcome
news that the cuckoo was back in the gardens…. twitch on! It transpired that
the previous report had been slightly lost in translation, as the bird had
simply dropped down in to vegetation between the two houses on the slope and
had disappeared from view – not flying away over a hill as we had all feared!
Fort William
Luckily, we decided to leave
the Travelodge that morning with the aim of getting to the ferry terminal at
Uig in good time – 2 hours early to be precise. This proved to be one of the
best decisions we’d ever made, as arriving at Mallaig ferry terminal after an
hour’s drive, the devastating reality dawned on us – the sat-nav had planned
the route to Skye via a small island ferry crossing at Mallaig instead of over
the bridge at the Kyle of Lochalsh. This was a disaster, and I’ve never felt
more crushed on a twitch (not even the time when we actually dipped the
Yellow-billed Cuckoo in Cornwall after a 7 hour drive through the night). With
the next Mallaig ferry not until after 11am and only being offered a standby
place, we were well and truly stuck. We were now over an hour away from where
we had started off this morning at Fort William, with a further 2 ¾ hours on
top of that, and time was fast slipping away. After coming all this way it
seemed we had fallen at the final hurdle – we simply weren’t going to make it.
With no guaranteed place on
the crossing we made the decision to try and get to Uig – last boarding was at
1:30pm and our sat navs arrival time predicted 1:52pm – a huge feat to try and
make up half an hour on the winding mountain roads complete with their caravan
induced tailbacks. With Alex driving like an absolute hero and watching our
arrival time get steadily shorter, as I eyed the sat-nav dial move down to
1:37pm I started to think we might be in with a chance…..
Remarkably, we eventually made
it to Uig at 1:24pm, although no ferry in sight as we were driving down the
hill towards the pier convinced me we had somehow come to the wrong port in the
absolute cruellest twist of fate – had we messed up again?! We were relieved
therefore to pull in to the terminal and be met with a jumble of birders,
scopes and tripods. Relief took over – we had somehow made it!
In a sheer stroke of luck, the
ferry had been delayed from its departure on Uist and wasn’t due in until
quarter to 2, allowing us plenty of time to purchase our tickets, park, unload
the car and somehow be one of the first ones on board!
Enjoying the ferry crossing,
we were finally able to relax and take in the beautiful scenery and wildlife
that Scotland has to offer. A pair of Golden Eagles drifted distantly over the
hillside, while a White-tailed Eagle eyrie on the distant Skye cliffs was just
about visible through binoculars. Several Black Guillemots – one of my
favourite birds – joined the other auks during the crossing, while the occasional
summer plumaged Great Northern Divers showed off their spectacular black and
white patterns. Two Arctic Skuas bombed past the side of the boat, while both
Harbour Porpoises and a distant pod of Bottlenose Dolphins kept us entertained
as they took advantage of the rich pickings the Scottish seas produce food
wise.
With Dan Pointon getting word
that the cuckoo was still present during the 2 hour journey across, once we had
docked into Lochmaddy there was a mad scramble to pick up hire cars. With the
ferry fully booked for cars on the Saturday sailings seemingly weeks in advance,
the majority of birders (us included) were foot passengers, and we were
thankfully offered a lift around the island by local Marbury birder Mal and his
wife – life savers and we were eternally grateful!
15 minutes later we were on
site and the search was on. The cuckoo had apparently disappeared an hour
earlier in the gardens down the hill and had yet to be located, and as more and
more birders arrived we spread out and covered the surrounding area. Having
favoured the same couple of gardens since its arrival a week earlier, the
cuckoo had recently become a lot more mobile over the last couple of days,
ranging across Loch Sandary in to a number of gardens. With absolutely glorious
weather on Uist I was soon regretting wearing my woolly walking boots and thick
coat as the sun beat down – for an island up on the northern edges of Britain
it was surprisingly warm!
As the time passed there was
still a sense of optimism that the cuckoo would be found – it was undoubtedly
still in the area and with around 40 or so birders looking it was only a matter
of time before someone located it. Serenaded by a soundtrack of the rasping
notes of Corncrakes hiding deep in the Irises and with several Common Cuckoos
calling and making occasional flights harassed by a mob of Meadow Pipits, after
around an hours searching, Alex suddenly pointed ahead of us – “Look, what’s
that flying towards us?!”.
It was of course, the cuckoo -
flying straight ahead of us and attempting to land on the roof of a nearby
house before doubling back and diving straight in to a thick patch of scrub.
Familiar with Coccyzus cuckoos in flight after seeing Yellow-billed in America,
we knew instantly that we had our prize.
Immediately getting the attention of
the birders nearby and shouting over that we had it, word soon spread, and
before long a steady stream of birders could be seen sprinting up the track,
hoping to get a glimpse of this most magical of birds.
Happy twitchers!
Showing well for the next 45
minutes or so, everyone present was able to enjoy fantastic views of this
almost mythical American vagrant as it flitted between the houses and patches
of vegetation in the immediate area, perching obligingly at the top of bushes
and fence posts and allowing us all to get stunning views of that deep dark
curved bill and striking crimson eye ring.
Relatively mobile and
constantly being harassed by a pair of Meadow Pipits, the cuckoo eventually
dropped down in to a large bush and out of sight. It was easy to see how the
bird could get lost in this remote habitat for long periods of time, and
without large numbers of birders searching the area it could easily go
undetected.
The gardens the cuckoo was favouring
With the cuckoo off show and
with everyone ecstatic about connecting with this truly monstrous bird (some
birders even cracked open bottles of Malt Whisky on site to celebrate) we
headed back to our accommodation for the evening, taking in the beautiful
surroundings that North Uist has to offer and elated that we had managed to
pull off what was a truly epic twitch.
The view from our accommodation - gorgeous!
With just 15 records in the UK
to date, Black-billed Cuckoo is one of those birds that has a near mythical
status on British birders lists. With the fact that individuals rarely last
more than a day and with no records in the last 25 years bar an individual seen
briefly by a handful of people on Orkney back in 2014, this was a species that
no one expected to get on their lists any time soon – and most certainly not
this spring! Long gone are the heydays of the 80’s (when remarkably four in one
year were recorded in 1982) and coupled with an apparent decline of this
species in their natural range in America, the prospects of Black-billed Cuckoo
occurring in Britain, let alone being twitchable, looked increasingly bleak.
The eventual stay of 10 days
by the North Uist Black-billed Cuckoo before its apparent departure on the
following Wednesday also finally put to bed the rumours that have long been
doing the rounds that British caterpillars are toxic to American cuckoos (and
are the cause of death after they make it over here). Rather, it is far more
likely that autumn juveniles just cannot cope with the Atlantic crossing (often
in huge debilitating storms) and simply succumb to exhaustion or lack of food. The
fact that the Uist bird was an adult, as
well as there perhaps being a greater abundance of caterpillars in the spring
compared to the autumn may have set it apart from the rest and ensured its
chance of survival.
Another mystery is when and
exactly where the cuckoo arrived this side of the Atlantic. While it is
possible that it made its way across this spring and made landfall straight on
North Uist, there is an alternative scenario that it instead arrived on the
back of the huge autumnal storms last October somewhere else in Europe or in
Africa, before overwintering on the continent and making a parallel migration
north once May approached. Regardless of its arrival, this was an absolutely
phenomenal bird that I for one certainly didn’t expect to be seeing any time
soon!
Seconds after I took the top photo, Alex spotted an Otter in the exact spot! The small brown squiggle under the gull may quite possibly be it!
Despite the huge distance up to Uist (Alex heroically did all the driving single-handedly) I always find island twitches to be some of the most enjoyable. The incredibly scenery and wildlife in Scotland (I even saw my first wild Otter) is always a joy to behold, and we both had a fantastic and enjoyable weekend twitching a bird that is sure to live on in the memory for years to come. As they say – he who dares, wins – and we most certainly did on this occasion.
Alex's video of the Black-billed Cuckoo in all it's glory!