Morocco Birding Trip Report (24th February - 2nd March 2019) - Species List and Locations

Day 1 – Marrakech & Oukaimeden (24^th February 2019)

House Bunting – 24^th February – Marrakech (First seen on the window ledge of our Riad. Abundant in the city with a group of 30+ seen feeding on split grain at close quarters.)

Maghreb Magpie – 24^th February – R203 Marrakech to Tahnaout (Seen foraging next to the road. Abundant and seen well throughout the trip. Recently split.)

Common Bulbul – 24^th February – Ourika (First seen in the trees near the pottery shops driving up to the Atlas Mountains. Relatively common throughout Morocco.)

African Crimson-winged Finch – 24^th February – Oukaimeden (Seen feeding in the car parks and around the ski lift at close quarters. Around 40 birds. Endemic.)

Other birds: (Marrakech) – Little Swift, Pallid Swift, Black Kite (Atlas Mountains) – African Blue Tit, African Chaffinch, Crag Martin, House Bunting 

(Oukaimeden) – Atlas Horned Lark, African Chaffinch, African Blue Tit

Day 2 – Igunane, Oukaimeden, Ourika (25th February 2019)

Levaillant's Woodpecker – 25^th February – Igunane (Single bird heard calling and then seen perched in a dead tree next to the road. Only bird of the trip.)

Other birds: (Igunane) – African Blue Tit, African Chaffinch (Oukaimeden) – Crimson-winged Finch, Alpine Chough, African Chaffinch, Barbary Partridge, Maghreb Magpie, Rock Sparrow, Rock Bunting, Black Wheatear, Atlas Horned Lark 

(Atlas Mountains) – Crag Martin, Iberian Chiffchaff, African Blue Tit, Moroccan Wagtail, Red-rumped Swallow, Common Bulbul

(Ourika) – Barbary Partridge, Woodchat Shrike, Serin, Common Bulbul

Day 3 – Oukaimeden to Marrakech (26th February 2019)

Moussier’s Redstart – 26^th February – R203 Thanaout to Marrakech (First seen in a scrubby field next to the R203. Seen in good numbers around Agadir on the west coast, particularly in rocky ares with trees. Showed extremely well on occasion and one of my favourite birds.)

Other birds: (Oukaimeden) – Crimson-winged Finch, Atlas Horned Lark, Rock Sparrow, Alpine Chough, Black Wheatear, African Blue Tit, Rock Bunting, Crested Lark, African Chaffinch, Serin

(Marrakech) – Spectacled Warbler, Sardinian Warbler, Crested Lark, Maghreb Magpie, African Chaffinch, House Bunting, White Stork

Day 4 – Marrakech to Agadir (27th February 2019)

Brown-throated Martin – 27^th February – Oued Massa (first northern bridge) (A small handful of birds seen with Swallows and Sand Martins over the first northern bridge over the Oued Massa. Plain throat visible compared with the band of the Sand Martins.)

Northern Bald Ibis – 27^th February – Sidi Wassay (First seen on the beach when four birds flew in to feed on the sand. Seen again the next day at close quarters with 2 perched and preening on a low rooftop.)

Other birds: (Oued Massa) – Moroccan Wagtail, Zitting Cisticola, Serin, Subalpine Warbler, Crested Lark, Sardinian Warbler 

(Sidi Wassay) – Moussier’s Redstart, Moroccan Wagtail, Spotless Starling, Yellow-legged Gull 

(Souss Massa) – Little Owl (Desert), Crested Lark, Maghreb Magpie, Moussier’s Redstart, Great spotted Cuckoo, Little Swift, Great Grey Shrike

Day 5 – Souss Massa National Park (Oued Massa), Oued Massa & Sidi Wassay (28th February 2019)

Black-crowned Tchagra – 28th February – Marrakech (First seen on the window ledge of our Riad. Abundant in the city with a group of 30+ seen feeding on split grain at close quarters.)

Other birds: (Souss Massa NP – Oued Massa) – Moussier’s Redstart, Subalpine Warbler, Sardinian Warbler, Crested Lark, Blue Rock Thrush, African Chaffinch, Spotless Starling, Spanish Sparrow, Wryneck, House Bunting, Yellow-legged Gull, Laughing Dove, Common Bulbul, Hoopoe, Serin, Cirl Bunting 

(Oued Massa) – Brown-throated Martin, Cirl Bunting, Little Owl (Desert), Zitting Cisticola, Sardinian Warbler, Great-spotted Cuckoo, House Bunting, Moussier’s Redstart, Crested Lark, Quail (heard only) 

(Sidi Wassay) – Northern Bald Ibis, Crested Lark, Maghreb Magpie, Moussier’s Redstart, Spotless Starling, House Bunting

 Day 6 – Taroudant & Paradise Valley (1st March 2019)

Fulvous Babbler – 1st March – Taroudant (Several found perched in shrubs inside the Aéroport de Taroudant compound as viewed from outside the fence. 7 in total and the only birds of the trip.)

Tristram’s Warbler – 1st March – Paradise Valley (Singing male seen observed in one of the large car parks heading up the valley. Possible wintering or breeding grounds. Territorial. Only bird of the trip.)

Other birds: (Taroudant) – Laughing Dove, Crested Lark, Subalpine Warbler, Sardinian Warbler, Pallid Swift, Zitting Cisticola, Spanish Sparrow, Maghreb Magpie, House Bunting, Common Bulbul

(Paradise Valley) – Sardinian Warbler, Black Wheatear, Moussier’s Redstart, Pallid Swift, Bonelli’s Eagle, Common Bulbul, House Bunting

Day 7 – Oued Sous & Paradise Valley (2nd March 2019)

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Other birds: (Oued Sous) – Greater Flamingo, Laughing Dove, Maghreb Magpie, Moroccan Wagtail, Subalpine Warbler, Zitting Cisticola, Sardinian Warbler 

(Paradise Valley) – Bonelli’s Eagle, Moussier’s Redstart, Maghreb Magpie, Crested Lark, Sardinian Warbler, African Chaffinch, Subalpine Warbler

Morocco Birding Trip Report - Day 4 (Wednesday 27th February 2019)

Bidding farewell to a bright and bustling Marrakech early the next morning, we made the relatively easy 3-hour drive to Agadir, the roads in surprisingly excellent condition and successfully bypassing the majority of traffic and speed enforcement officers by taking the roll route. Upon arriving at this popular coastal holiday destination, we immediately made our way to one of the main river sites in the area – the well-known Oued Massa. Noted as a good spot for both Black-crowned Tchagra and Brown-throated Martin (previously Plain Martin before it was split) – both sought after birds in the Western Pal - we unfortunately could find neither sight nor sound or any Tchagras along the scrubby riverside bushes, a stray dog and a few locals on donkey and cart the only things materialising. 

The Brown-throated Martin bridge - stand here, look up, and hope for Martins!

A Moroccan Wagtail (ssp. subpersonata) showing incredibly well on the stony rubble to the side of the bridge was a nice consolation, and great to get a real look at this location specific subspecies of White Wagtail as opposed to viewing half way down a valley in the Atlas Mountains as we had earlier on in the trip. Moroccan Wagtails are distinguished from other sub-species mainly by their facial patterns, sporting extensive black on the head along with a contrasting white supercilium, moustache and neck patch.

Moroccan Wagtail - ssp subpersonata

Parking up at the northernmost bridge just west of Arhbalou and scanning up at the hirundine flock floating above, we soon struck it lucky with the latter of our two targets, picking out a small handful of Brown-throated Martins among the many Barn Swallows, House and Sand Martins artfully weaving through the air. Sporting a plain brown throat as their name suggests compared to the obvious bold band of the Sand Martins, despite the harsh sunlight we were soon able to pick out the Brown-throated Martins on flight style alone – much more erratic and ‘bat-like’ in flight and almost impossible to keep track of in a camera lens!

Brown-throated Martin - the dull brown chest with no obvious brown bar distinguishes it from the similar Sand Martin

The riverside at Oued Massa - the northern most bridge was the best place to find Brown-throated Martin

Enjoying the burst of song from the many Zitting Cisticolas on site, we pressed on further to Sidi Wassay, a small village that achieves regular sightings of Northern Bald Ibis around the buildings and beach. Almost immediately, pulling in to a suitable spot of shoreline we spotted four dark shapes powering towards the sand, and sure enough, scanning with our binoculars as they touched down revealed four Northern Bald Ibis coming in to land – one of the rarest birds in the world. It was a relief to have seen them so early on in our stay in Agadir, really taking the pressure off a key target for the trip.

Classed as endangered, Morocco holds the only surviving wild population of Northern Bald Ibis in the world, with 708 birds counted in the Souss Massa region in 2018 (147 breeding pairs with 170 chicks successfully fledging). The views however were extremely distant, and after disappearing behind one of the dune slacks, we were unable to relocate them, despite an extensive search.

With no further sign of the Ibis and enjoying close views of a feeding Moussier’s Redstart next to the nearby ‘Camping Reception car park’ for a while, we made our way further north in an attempt to get in to the Souss Massa National Park reserve itself. 

Moussier's Redstart

Maghreb Magpies were a welcome sight in most areas we passed, while numerous Thekla and Crested Larks scurried through the boulder-strewn ground (upon arriving back at the UK we learned that the Moroccan Thekla larks have deceptively long bills similar to Crested – a bit of a minefield without careful analysis of the plumage!). Despite looking like ideal habitat for Cream-coloured Courser, our drive along the rocky land sadly failed to reveal any of what is always a charming and charismatic bird on any trip in to the desert.

Not being able to find much information online of how best to access the official Souss Massa reserve before our trip, we tried several points of likely looking access, reluctant to leave our car and belongings at the southern entrance gates and instead choosing to explore a maze of winding tracks and small villages further north. Here we also found a dead end, with no real easy access to the reserve, although several individuals of the desert form of Little Owl perching on a number of outbuildings in the villages were a welcome distraction, much lighter and sandier in colour than the Little Owls back home. 

'Desert' Little Owl

Several more Moussier’s Redstarts feeding in the local parched and stony gardens were as always a delight, while we also had our first Great Spotted Cuckoo and Great Grey Shrike of the trip perched on the nearby bushes and fences respectively.

Great Grey Shrike

Great Spotted Cuckoo

With the day pressing on and feeling slightly frustrated at the seeming lack of secure access to Souss Massa and with no wifi to check where we should be trying from, we admitted defeat, instead making the drive back to our hotel in Agadir for a tasty dinner of lamb chops while we took advantage of the wifi to establish exactly where we needed to go the next morning!

Brown-throated Martin along the Moroccan skyline

Morocco Birding Trip Report - Day 2 (Monday 25th February 2019)

Our next day dawned with sunshine and beautiful blue skies, the harsh call of a Levaillant’s Woodpecker echoing around the valley as we ate breakfast proving to be a promising sign in our attempt at connecting with this endemic species. 

The wooded surroundings of Aurocher

With a number of Serins serenading us as we left the car park, we drove slowly up to Igunane, scanning the bare trunks and oak thickets favoured by the Levaillant’s, the early morning playing to our advantage with a distinct lack of people. In no time at all our dawn start had paid off, and we were soon enjoying fantastic views of a male Levaillant’s Woodpecker, boring in to the thick trunk of a large dead tree in front of us and posing statue like as we drank in the views. 

Levaillant's Woodpecker

The rows of trees lining the road at Igunane that the Levaillant's favoured. There was only a small stretch half way up to Oukaïmeden that seemed suitable.

The Woodpecker's favourite dead tree - next to one of the small Atlas cafes

Dropping down unseen in to a grassy slope next to one of the tagine stands, our woodpecker didn’t resurface, so once more we headed up to the summit in an attempt to catch up with what was now turning in to a bit of a regular nemesis – Alpine Accentor. Upon arrival, the contrast between the previous day was startling – where there had been hundreds of bustling tourists and locals selling their wares a day earlier now stood empty, with not a single person in sight. 

A rather more peaceful Oukaïmeden

Pulling up beside the first car park, several Alpine Choughs lined the wires in front of us, offering much better views than the distant specks I had seen in Spain 5 years earlier, while a small flock of Crimson-winged Finches gave outstanding views on the small wall next to the car, snaffling the leftover seeds and nuts from the previous day’s wares.

Alpine Chough - note the yellow bill

African Crimson-winged Finch - the star of the show at Oukaïmeden!

It was incredible to watch these charasmatic finches feed at such close quarters

Almost like another world compared to the chaos of Sunday and much more enjoyable in the peace and quiet, it would be wise to plan any trips to Oukaimeden for a weekday morning, avoiding the absolute carnage and madness that seems to unfold on a weekend. 

Scanning the slopes once more revealed a huge mega flock of African Chaffinches, several Atlas Horned Larks and Bramblings mixed within, while Rock Sparrows bustled along the walls and fences. Higher up the slopes where some of the larger snow patches remained produced our first Rock Bunting for the trip, while a pair of Black Wheatear held territory on one of the larger boulders – fascinating to hear the male sing and display. 

Rock Bunting

Snow!

Looking back down at the main resort and village

Clear skies from the watchpoint!

A single Barbary Partridge flushed from the Atlas lookout point was a nice surprise, while Black Redstarts once again flitted from rock to rock. With an extensive search yet again yielding no Alpine Accentors, we headed back down the mountain, a small flock of Crag Martins wheeling around the cliff face our first of the trip while a second Rock Bunting perched below. 

Rock Bunting

A stop off at Aurocher for a spot of lunch saw us sample the delights of the delicious Atlas Mountain Morels, a speciality of the area and cooked to perfection in a much needed omelette, providing the opportunity for a relaxing break with an ice cold fresh orange juice, soaking up the scenery after a busy morning at the summit. 

The fantastic Aurocher - complete with stunning mountain backdrop

Refreshed and heading further down the mountainside, a stop off in some sheltered pines revealed a handful of singing Firecrests, while a bit of patience resulted in our first Coal Tit for the trip (ssp Atlas). The lower levels of the mountain saw an abundance of Red-rumped Swallows artfully weaving across the roadside, while scoping down to the riverbed below resulted in our first Moroccan Wagtails (a subspecies of White Wagtail), their black bridles and head straps clear to see despite the distance. 

The amazing views of the Atlas Mountains on our descent

A handful of Common Bulbuls offered a chance for some photos as they lined the trees next to the lush streamside vegetation, while more Red-rumped Swallows floated gracefully overhead. 

With the stupendous Moussiers Redstart on our minds, we set about exploring the farmland and villages at the base of the Atlas, still yet to connect with one of Morocco’s star species. Heading towards the nearby village of Ourika once more saw us experiencing Moroccan traffic at its finest, the locals deciding the main road and bridge over a river would provide the best location for an outdoor market - carts, donkeys, animals, stalls, mopeds and a swarming mass of people all adding to the chaos.

The difference in farming between Morocco and the sterile grasslands of the British farming scene was never more apparent than in the back roads of Ourika, with the fields and hedges absolutely teeming with life. Corn Bunting songs jangled from every bush, while no fewer than 7 pairs of Stonechats made their territory in the hedgerows. House Sparrows, finches and Serins flittered in abundance as coveys of Barbary Partridges made their way gingerly through the crops, while our first Woodchat Shrike of the trip added a splash of colour as it perched on surrounding branches.

A three-point turn in one of the narrow village back roads (realistically more like a 50-point turn) to get back to Ourika once more turned in to an event in itself as locals swarmed en-masse to see what was occurring, with clusters of eager children pawing at the car enthusiastically - our impromptu visit clearly creating mass excitement in an undoubtedly normally event-free rural village community. 

Common Bulbul

A particularly showy Common Bulbul provided a good photo opportunity despite the backlight, but with a lack of Moussiers Redstarts in the area and evening approaching, we headed back to Aurocher (once more having to work our way through the stresses of the bridge market!), a dinner of hummus and delicious lamb cutlets waiting for us in the peace and tranquillity of the Atlas mountain backdrop.