With our final day in Portugal dawning and with brilliant blue skies weather-wise, we checked out of our hotel and left Lagos for the last time, making the journey up north to the well-known plains around Castro Verde an hour and a half away. Hoping our toll passes from the hire car company were working as we sped through countless check points, we were soon at our destination to begin the search for one of the species we were both most looking forward to seeing – Great Bustard.
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| The entrance to the Great Bustard Reserve in Castro Verde |
Arriving at the gates to the popular Great Bustard reserve at Castro Verde, we were disappointed to find them closed, and without a guide we were sadly unable to enter. However, scanning the surrounding plains the habitat looked ideal, so we took the car down a nearby side-road in an effort to locate any wandering Bustards. Searching the distant fields, I soon locked on to three large birds heading distantly left - surely our target.
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| The fields around the reserve - ideal habitat for Bustards |
Being just too far away to confirm and quickly disappearing behind a hill, we decided to try and relocate them in the car, driving around the reserve and following the roads down to Viseus before heading east towards Guerreiro. Expecting dusty and potholed tracks in our hunt for the Bustards, it was a pleasant surprise to be met with road surfaces all in excellent condition even in this remote area – a reoccurring theme we noticed throughout our time in Portugal and putting the British roads to shame!
As we stopped to scan, the cries of Black-bellied Sandgrouse echoed overhead, and we were treated to several flyover flocks during the morning. Like elsewhere in Portugal, the fields were teaming with bird life, and we encountered masses of larks and Corn Buntings in the lush grasses either side of the road.
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| The lush fields of Castro Verde |
Iberian Grey Shrikes and Spotless Starlings were a regular sight perched on the wires, while White Stork nests seemed to adorn every other telegraph pole, the huge structures balanced on specially placed platforms.
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| White Stork nest |
Raptors were also in abundance here, and we encountered several Common Kestrels, Common Buzzards, Red Kites and even Marsh Harriers – the latter a species I wouldn’t normally associate with this type of habitat. Sadly, the Lesser Kestrels eluded me yet again - something that will have to be put right with a trip to Extremadura in the future!
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| Marsh Harrier - an unexpected sight on the plains of Castro Verde |
Approaching the patch of fields the Bustards looked to have flown to, we stopped the car at regular intervals to scan the surrounding plains, the heat haze making viewing somewhat difficult. It wasn’t long before Alex’s eagle eyes spotted one however, and getting me on it, we quickly noticed a further two individuals feeding with the first, gradually moving up the slope. Finally, a long-awaited lifer for both of us in the form of three magnificent Great Bustards.
More than likely the three birds we had spotted flying near the start of the reserve, we watched as they fed in the short grass, an iconic species in these parts and a bird we had both been wanting to see for some time. Despite the distance and heat haze, we managed a few record shots through the scope and admired the sheer size of these incredible birds.
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| Extreme record shot of a very distant Great Bustard! |
Even though flocks of up to 60 had been reported recently, these three individuals were the only ones of our trip, despite driving the tracks around Castro Verde until well in to the afternoon.
With a whole scattering of Great Bustard records around Castro Verde and the area being a well-known and important site for them, the best thing for anyone looking for them is simply to drive around the area, stopping the car and scanning for any movement on the plains. The fields around the reserve are a particularly good location for sightings if you can’t get on to the reserve itself, and the eBird map below shows the hotspots around Castro Verde.
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| Distribution of Great Bustards this year from eBird |
