Day 4 - Sunday 24th May 2015
Sunday dawned with bright blue
skies and sun, perfect weather for what was my most looked forward to day of
our trip – Doodletown. Part of Bear Mountain State Park and situated just over
an hour’s drive north of Manhattan, this fantastic area is a well-known and
popular destination amongst New York birders.
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Lots of Black Vultures took advantage of the clear skies - the diagnostic white tips to the wings were visible even at a distance |
Hiring a car for the day, despite
our reservations, turned out to be a brilliant decision, and we were soon well
on our way, crossing the George Washington Bridge and heading north through New
Jersey. We encountered our first Black Vulture of the trip taking advantage of
the thermals, passing several more as we travelled, along with a classic
American cop chase encounter unfolding right in front of our eyes. A quick
chase resulted in the two motorcyclists crashing head first over their
handlebars before being pinned down, cuffed and seeing 5 guns pointed at their
heads by the American police.
Getting slightly lost finding the
car parking area for the start of our walk at Bear Mountain, we stopped at a layby to reassess. A Northern Mockingbird (a bird we had so far missed in the two parks) immediately flew in to the sunny clearing, beak laden with juicy
caterpillars and indicating a nest may be nearby.
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Northern Mockingbird with caterpillars - presumably to feed young |
A small, brightly coloured bird
perched on the wires also caught my eye, and a closer look through binoculars revealed a fine male Indigo Bunting, again another bird that we were yet to
catch up with on the trip. With a second bird flying through the Mockingbird
clearing, we were really able to admire the stunning bright blue plumage that
gives the birds their name. Eventually seeing around 4 in total, this was the
only location during our trip that we managed to connect with these brightly
coloured wonders.
Heading back to the car, it soon
became clear that we wouldn’t be going anywhere anytime soon – neither of us had any idea how to start the car! Luckily a passing cop helped us out and
thankfully we were on our way again, having had a much better experience of
American cops first hand than the two unfortunate motorcyclists earlier.
Reaching our parking layby opposite a small body of water, our first Turkey Vulture of the trip soared low
down overhead. Distinguished from the Black Vultures by the strip of silver on the underwing, the two are easily told apart even from a distance. A Great Blue Heron (the American equivalent of our Grey Herons) passed overhead, its sheer size apparent, while a male Yellow Warbler flitted through the trees.
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Turkey Vulture - The thick white stripe on the underside meant we could tell the two vulture species apart easily |
The sun now beating down, we
headed up the trail to track down some of the many warbler wonders that breed
here. Unlike the warblers passing through Central and Prospect Park that merely
pass through on their migration, the warblers at Bear Mountain actually stop to
breed in the area, meaning a whole variety of new species would be opened up
for us. With such mouth-watering treats as Hooded, Cerulean, Blue-winged and
the delightfully named Worm-eating Warbler all easily accessible here, yet only
encountered very occasionally in the Manhattan parks, we hoped to catch up with
this colourful cast on their breeding grounds.
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Black Vulture |
Heading up the trail and admiring a large flock of Black and Turkey Vultures that were right overhead, we had barely
gone a few metres before we picked up the high pitched call of a Cerulean Warbler. This beautiful powder-blue warbler was high up on my list of most
wanted birds to see, and within a few minutes of peering up in to the tree, I
caught sight of a movement amongst the twisting vines as a fine male flitted
through the leaves, giving great views as it remained stationary on an exposed
branch. Bingo. Much easier to see than we had expected and our first target
safely in the bag – Doodletown was proving to be a doddle!
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One of the typical warbler-rich trails at Doodletown |
Heading down the track and having
memorised the songs of the warbler species we expected to see here, we soon
stopped when I recognised a familiar call coming from a tree by the side of the trail – Blue-winged Warbler. Within moments, I caught a glimpse out of the
corner of my eye as a flash of colour flew towards the telegraph pole at the
side of the road next to us. Singing continuously, for such a brightly coloured
bird it was almost impossible to relocate – the sound so loud but the bird seemingly
obscured deep in a bush somewhere to our right. Finally, I had it, a gorgeous
male, nestled within the branches and leaves of the shrub right in front of us.
We stopped to watch this beautiful warbler, now busy preening, and took in the
bright sunshine yellow body, blue wings and olive green back. Settled and
content, the Blue-winged Warbler continued to sing his heart out, and we left
him to attract a mate in peace, another of our target warblers off the list.
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The 'Blue-winged Warbler's Blue wings' |
Another familiar call soon caught
our attention, and a quick check of our app revealed it to be a Yellow-throated
Vireo. This proved to be a nightmare to find, the call emanating from different
parts of the trees as this elusive bird seemed to move all over the place.
After around 15 frustrating minutes, we eventually pinned it down to a stand of
trees on the other side of the trail, the yellow throat and double white wing-bars
unmistakeable.
Walking further up the trail, we
stopped at a clearing overlooking a stand of woodland. A bird flying out of the
trees and over the path caught my eye, and raising my binoculars I was stunned
to be greeted by a pristine male Hooded Warbler – Alex’s number 1 target bird
of the trip.
The equivalent of my male Blackburnian Warbler, panic then ensued
as I tried to direct him to the bird – luckily in a much shorter time than it
took me to find the first Blackburnian at Central Park! With the classic “baby
baby, I love you” song that was ingrained in our memory, we watched as this
beautiful warbler sang from the branches opposite, the jet black hood standing
out from the bright yellow body (reminding me of a bumble bee) and ecstatic
that we had tracked down our main target at the site.
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Our much sought after Hooded Warbler! |
So rich in bird life, Doodletown
had such a variety of species that we just wouldn’t see in Manhattan. A pair of Blue-grey Gnatcatchers flitting from tree to tree were the only two of the trip, their long tails and bright,
white-ringed eyes giving them a ‘cute’ appearance, while a Pileated Woodpecker flying right over our heads was a fantastic spot by Alex. Huge in size and
prehistoric looking in appearance, these large woodpeckers breed at Bear
Mountain, but often prove to be particularly hard to spot, so it was brilliant
to bump in on one like this without even trying!
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Blue-Grey Gnatcatcher |
Talking to a pair of birders on
the trail path, we learned that another of our sought after species –
Ruby-throated Hummingbird – had been seen regularly that morning buzzing around
the trees surrounding the large pond further up the track, and that a male
Kentucky Warbler had taken up residence in a favoured tree much further up the
trail. Getting directions, we continued
on, hoping to catch up with both of these difficult to pin down species. With
no definite sites for Ruby-throated Hummingbird, and with sightings usually of
individuals whizzing past randomly, we’d had no luck at Prospect Park, even
though a female was apparently nesting near the lake. Unfortunately however, it
was the same case here, and despite looking around the pond, we had no luck in
relocating it.
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The patch of water in question the hummingbird was said to favour |
Following the directions we had
been given and heading further up the hill, we eventually came to a small fast
flowing brook cutting through the trees, where a brown flycatcher perched on a close-by branch gave excellent views – an Eastern Phoebe.
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Eastern Phoebe - We had fantastic views of this attractive little flycatcher |
Eastern Phoebe was
another bird we had yet to encounter on our trip until now, and we watched as
the bird performed its diagnostic tail wagging, beak laden with insects. Often
nesting under bridges, it was quite likely a pair had built their nest near or
under the small bridge we were standing on.
Moving on and joining the few other birders further up the path where the Kentucky Warbler was setting up territory, we gazed up to a low branch where the distinct song was emanating
from. Not a species that we were expecting to see in America, this was a mini
American twitch in itself! We had soon locked on to this fantastic warbler,
throwing his head back and singing loudly from the exposed perch.
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The Kentucky Warbler - a fantastic addition to our trip list |
After a while, a sound we
instantly knew drew us away from the Kentucky, a long high pitched “Peeeeeeee-weeeeeeee”. This could only be one thing – an Eastern Wood Peewee. Another flycatcher that we were yet to encounter in Manhattan’s parks, we climbed up the bank and in to
the trees to see if we could track down the owner of the call. Approaching from
where the sound was coming from, I spotted a small brown bird perched on a
branch – our Peewee. Looking through our bins, we admired this small flycatcher
‘peeweeing’ on several occasions, taking a few record shorts until a loud
sneeze from Alex disturbed it (flusher!).
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Eastern Wood Peewee |
Deciding to continue on, and after spotting another male Hooded Warbler and what was presumably the Kentucky Warbler deciding to move further up the path, our ears caught a loud trilling coming from the trees nearby – unmistakable as a Worm-eating Warbler. Only very rarely seen in spring at Central and Prospect parks, but with several birds
reliably reported at Doodletown during the breeding season, we excitedly made
our way up the steep slope following the trilling. Quite similar to the more
familiar call of our Grasshopper Warblers, spotting the bird in question was
extremely difficult, obviously perching on the top of the branches and obscured
from down below by the abundance of leaves. Eventually though, we caught a
glimpse as it passed underneath the bough, stopping for a brief second to call,
before it had vanished once more and melted in to the leaves. Definitely not a
species I had expected to see, but desperately wanted to due to the quirky
name! This was also our 23rd warbler of the trip, a tally that we
were most definitely pleased with!
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DREADFUL out of focus record shot of the Worm-eating Warbler! |
Exploring higher up the trail
where the trees became thicker interestingly resulted in much fewer birds, a nesting Red-eyed Vireo the only species of note as we rested from the sun and
took in the views. Deciding to head down and give the Hummingbird another
crack, stopping at the side of the trail resulted in one of my favourite spots
all trip, as Alex called “Eastern Bluebird – in that tree!” Looking over the valley, I just managed to get my bins on this most unmistakable and charismatic
species, the bright blue and orange plumage shining out even from a distance.
And then, just like that, it fluttered across the valley, disappearing behind a
line of trees. Amazing. This was another bird that I had especially wanted to
see but didn’t expect to, and it was purely by chance – if we had been looking
the other way or not stopped to check the valley, we would have missed it
entirely.
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The thick vegetation and tree cover lining the paths was perfect for warblers |
Now returning to the pond where
the Ruby-throated Hummingbird had been frequenting, we heard a group of birders
mentioning that they had just spotted a Yellow-billed Cuckoo in the trees.
After perhaps one of the worst dips in my birding memory at Porthgwarra in
Cornwall last October, this would definitely go some way towards easing that
pain.
Keeping our eyes peeled, we noticed a flash of white and brown – the Yellow-billed Cuckoo. What a bird (even if it was on the wrong side of the Atlantic to truly heal our hurting
British lists)! Similar in structure to Black-billed Cuckoos, Yellow-billed can
be distinguished by the large white markings on the tail – much more restricted
on the small uniform stripes on the tail of the Black-billed, and the
distinctive yellow bill.
Deciding to have our lunch by the
pond while keeping a watchful eye out for any hummingbirds, another Great Blue Heron slowly crept around the bare edges hunting, at one point striking it
lucky and scoring a meal of a large frog. The chestnut thighs were extremely
obvious, even at a distance, and hopefully individuals will soon start to get
recognised more frequently in Britain now the recent Scilly bird has made
people more aware of what to look for (bring on the grip back!)
Noticing a brown bird that had
appeared to be nesting in one of the nearby shrubs, Alex called me over to take a look – our first Brown-headed Cowbird. With just brief views initially, we
eventually got a much better look at this all brown bird as it flitted through
the trees – the triangle shaped bill distinctive. Unfortunately, at this
moment, the American birders from earlier excitedly called us over – the
hummingbird was back! Sprinting over, we peered up in to the leaves, but there
was no sign. “It’s just gone” they explained! “Only just missed it!” Typical! From
this moment on we didn’t take our eyes off the spot!
Joining us in the search for the
hummingbird, and necks straining, we stared up to the tops of the trees this
particular individual had been favouring. This was probably where we had been
going wrong, as we had never imagined they would be so high up (we’d been
looking at eye level) – who knows how many hummingbirds we had missed buzzing
high up over our heads!
The Yellow-billed Cuckoo from
earlier made a return to the trees, providing much better views this time,
while an Eastern Kingbird seemed intent on harassing a pair of Warbling Vireos
that had used the tops of the branches to make a nest.
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The yellow bill of the Cuckoo was obvious.. |
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As were the thick white tail stripes |
With our companions moving on and
wishing us luck, we were left to find this most elusive of birds ourselves. One
of our most wanted this trip and having never seen a Hummingbird before, we
were determined to stick it out – even if it meant staying all afternoon!
Looking over the water, I noticed two large corvids fly over – a new species
for the trip – but which ones were they, Fish or American?! Very similar in
flight, the only reliable way to separate the two would be to hear them call.
Hoping for them to break their silence, we were rewarded with a familiar long cawwww – American Crow! These turned out to be the only two of the trip, so we were
extremely lucky to jam in on them.
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This male Baltimore Oriole showed really well while we waited |
Eventually after around half an
hour Alex excitedly pointed up to the tree – we had it, perched in all its
glory, right above our heads. Managing just a few record shots, we admired this
absolutely stunning little bird, metallic green wings and shiny ruby-red throat
glowing in the sun. And then it was off, buzzing through the sky on tiny wings
off to the next patch of trees across the water. Success! Ruby-throated Hummingbird and one of the top
three birds of the entire trip.
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Terribly out of focus - but it was our first wild Hummingbird!! |
With the afternoon free, and just Nashville Warbler and Chipping Sparrow being the only additional notable birds,
we decided to make the most of the hire car and head over to Plumb Beach in Brooklyn. This is a great location for shorebirds, and often holds large counts
of Black Skimmers that can be found resting on the sand – another star species
that we were especially keen to catch up with. Arriving on the shore, we
immediately encountered our first new birds – 4 Least Terns hurrying past in front of the rocks, battling against the wind. Near identical to our Little
Terns and once considered the same species, Least Terns are the American
equivalent, only recently split by the ABA.
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Least Terns at Plumb Beach |
A fine American Oystercatcher pottered along the tideline, another first for the trip, and we could clearly
see the bright yellow eye that is the key difference from our European
Oystercatchers. With so many American counterparts on this trip exhibiting only
minor differences from our European species, we had experienced first-hand what
to look for when identifying them, and would definitely be checking common
birds in the UK more thoroughly from now on for any stray American vagrants
hidden within.
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American Oystercatcher |
Scoping in to the distance, Alex had tracked down the Black Skimmers on a far out sandbank, and making our way
across the shore we eventually caught up with these bizarre looking birds.
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Black Skimmers - incredible looking birds |
With
a flock of around 150 sat on the sand, several split off from the flock and
flew right past us, giving spectacular views of their bright red, almost clown
like bills. Avoiding the water, we set up the scope to take in these incredible
birds, another highlight of the tip. It was amazing to think that they were so
close to civilisation, the Brooklyn landscape behind the flock reminding us that
we were still in the big city, yet watching an incredible array of birds and
wildlife.
A small flock of Sanderling scurrying around the sand revealed no Least or Semipalmated Sandpipers within, but flocks of American Herring Gulls provided the best views of this species so far on the
trip, strutting across the shore and taking advantage of the rich pickings of
crabs and other debris washed up on the sand.
With time pressing on and after a spot of Man vs Food
sightseeing at Brennan & Carrs (their double dipped beef sandwich did look
amazing) we endured the stressful ordeal of getting our hire car back before
9pm. With every petrol station we approached either closed or shut down, and
with the sat-nav losing signal amongst the skyscrapers of New York towards the
end, it was a miracle that we managed to make it back at all.
Luckily we joined the queue of other returning vehicles,
and with the guy at the desk letting us off for not refilling the car full (he
obviously wanted to head home) we headed back to the hotel happy after what had
been a fantastic day exploring new areas and bagging a tonne of brilliant new
birds.
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